dinsdag 27 november 2012
maandag 5 november 2012
zondag 4 november 2012
Dutch National Championship.....place 4
A bit late, but nonetheless......semi finals in the Dutch Championship went ok. First boulder was easy....second boulder I messed up by trying too hard, so I only topped it in my final and 3rd try. 3rd boulder was my style (at least the shortcut) mantle into a corner and just walk up! 4th boulder was a little bit harder bout managed to top at once as well!
The finals were a bit harder and I notived in the first boudler that I wasn't at my best at the moment. So first boulder (very technical) was a no go for me! Second boulder was as tension problem with a dinamic ending. Managed to 3/4 in the first try but didnt know what to do with the two slopers. second try I messed up a small dynamic move in the beginning so it had to be the 3rd try. (again 2nd boulder 3rd try important). I managed to get to the last move but was so pumped that there was nog fast power left....tried to mantle into the corner but that was no go. That moment I kind of knew that the first place was no go anymore as there would be at least 3 tops in this boulder.
Then 3rd boulder was a volume problem with a mantle...I like! my style all over, but unfortunately there was no real power left in my body and I couldn't do the mantle. no top again! I was a little ashamed as I normally really like these kind of things and now there was no possibily for me.
4th problem was a double dyno a little bit to the side. I managed to do it 3rd or 4th try and luckily the top out was not that hard. I felt a huge relieve that I could at least top 1 boulder and it gave me the 4th place!
Underneath the official NKBV video of the comp.
The finals were a bit harder and I notived in the first boudler that I wasn't at my best at the moment. So first boulder (very technical) was a no go for me! Second boulder was as tension problem with a dinamic ending. Managed to 3/4 in the first try but didnt know what to do with the two slopers. second try I messed up a small dynamic move in the beginning so it had to be the 3rd try. (again 2nd boulder 3rd try important). I managed to get to the last move but was so pumped that there was nog fast power left....tried to mantle into the corner but that was no go. That moment I kind of knew that the first place was no go anymore as there would be at least 3 tops in this boulder.
Then 3rd boulder was a volume problem with a mantle...I like! my style all over, but unfortunately there was no real power left in my body and I couldn't do the mantle. no top again! I was a little ashamed as I normally really like these kind of things and now there was no possibily for me.
4th problem was a double dyno a little bit to the side. I managed to do it 3rd or 4th try and luckily the top out was not that hard. I felt a huge relieve that I could at least top 1 boulder and it gave me the 4th place!
Underneath the official NKBV video of the comp.
vrijdag 28 september 2012
Dutch National Championship 2012 in Rotterdam
Dutch championship is on: Saturday the 29th of September!
It takes place in the center of Rotterdam....will I be able to climb better then last year and make it to the podium again? Come and see for yourself!
It takes place in the center of Rotterdam....will I be able to climb better then last year and make it to the podium again? Come and see for yourself!
World Championship in Paris
As a member of the Dutch National Team i got to compete in the World Championship Bouldering in Paris. Unfortunately I got sick on the Saturday before. Although I really hoped everything would be ok on the day I had to climb....it wasnt supposed to be that way.
I had a small fever so I was weak as hell. I couldnt even top the first boulder which was suposed to be around 7A if you did it with the bold holds instead of the holds itself. (why were they not closed?!)
Although the organisation was a bit French (f.e. isolations closes at 8am while at 7.55am 75% of the athletes where still waiting in line) the competition was great at an almost perfect location! Never knew that so may people would enjoy watching climbing!
At the end I reallly enjoyed watching al the others compete and had a great week sightseeing in Paris, but the comp self was a bit disappointing. Especially as this was the first time in almost a year where I felt pretty strong and confident (before I got sick of course). It really got me motivated to train harder and make sure I wont get an injury anymore.
And we had 2 great sessions in BlockBuster, one of the climbing gyms in Paris. Tonde (from L'Ouvre-Boite) had set up 4 mens and 4 womens boulder problems for practise. Great boulders, great gym!
I had a small fever so I was weak as hell. I couldnt even top the first boulder which was suposed to be around 7A if you did it with the bold holds instead of the holds itself. (why were they not closed?!)
Although the organisation was a bit French (f.e. isolations closes at 8am while at 7.55am 75% of the athletes where still waiting in line) the competition was great at an almost perfect location! Never knew that so may people would enjoy watching climbing!
At the end I reallly enjoyed watching al the others compete and had a great week sightseeing in Paris, but the comp self was a bit disappointing. Especially as this was the first time in almost a year where I felt pretty strong and confident (before I got sick of course). It really got me motivated to train harder and make sure I wont get an injury anymore.
And we had 2 great sessions in BlockBuster, one of the climbing gyms in Paris. Tonde (from L'Ouvre-Boite) had set up 4 mens and 4 womens boulder problems for practise. Great boulders, great gym!
 |
| The Dutch Team at the gym |
dinsdag 4 september 2012
Worldcup Munich
The last world up of this season has ended....the worldcup in Munich. Beautiful location (Olympic stadium of 1972 with its remarkable roof).
Fr the first time since last year December I had no finger injury. It was only 4 days before the comp that I had no more pain! A bit too late to get my finger strength back, but on time to be able to climb free and without a blockade.
I felt pretty strong during the warming up and started with confidence. First boulder felt very easy and was able to flash it. In the second boulder I did not see how to make the second move so it took me a while (in my first try) to figure it out. Once I found out I had to make a knee drop I was so pumped I couldn't end the boulder. I had to wait long before making a second try. Still a bit pumped unfortunately I couldn't get past the bonus hold.
3th boulder was balance all over. Start with both hands and feet on a big volume. Somehow I was unable to find my balance so took me a million tries to do the first move. After 4,5 minutes I was able to get to the second hold (with the wrong hand) had to match and jumped to fast the the third hold. Nothing....
4th boulder had to start with a heel hook and thanks to my new shoes (Five Ten dragon) that was no problem at all! Too bad the second hold was pretty slippery....first few tries I zipped every time I tried to jump from the second hold to the corner. Te only time I didn't zip I managed to get the corner but forgot to get it hit enough to make the little people move (very high foothold).
The last bouder was a tricky one. You had to make a dynamic side move while throwing your left foot up into a toe hook at the same time. And of course I did not see it, while normally these kind of strange boulders are my favorite. I tried many different things including a lay down start, but not the right method...
I felt like I could have done a lot more. Too bad! Luckily I still have 1 more comp to go: the World Championship in Paris! As I still feel strong and it looks like I am getting stronger every day know (thanks to pain free climbing and crimping like hell) I have good hope that I can make up for this season in Paris.
Fr the first time since last year December I had no finger injury. It was only 4 days before the comp that I had no more pain! A bit too late to get my finger strength back, but on time to be able to climb free and without a blockade.
I felt pretty strong during the warming up and started with confidence. First boulder felt very easy and was able to flash it. In the second boulder I did not see how to make the second move so it took me a while (in my first try) to figure it out. Once I found out I had to make a knee drop I was so pumped I couldn't end the boulder. I had to wait long before making a second try. Still a bit pumped unfortunately I couldn't get past the bonus hold.
3th boulder was balance all over. Start with both hands and feet on a big volume. Somehow I was unable to find my balance so took me a million tries to do the first move. After 4,5 minutes I was able to get to the second hold (with the wrong hand) had to match and jumped to fast the the third hold. Nothing....
4th boulder had to start with a heel hook and thanks to my new shoes (Five Ten dragon) that was no problem at all! Too bad the second hold was pretty slippery....first few tries I zipped every time I tried to jump from the second hold to the corner. Te only time I didn't zip I managed to get the corner but forgot to get it hit enough to make the little people move (very high foothold).
The last bouder was a tricky one. You had to make a dynamic side move while throwing your left foot up into a toe hook at the same time. And of course I did not see it, while normally these kind of strange boulders are my favorite. I tried many different things including a lay down start, but not the right method...
I felt like I could have done a lot more. Too bad! Luckily I still have 1 more comp to go: the World Championship in Paris! As I still feel strong and it looks like I am getting stronger every day know (thanks to pain free climbing and crimping like hell) I have good hope that I can make up for this season in Paris.
maandag 16 juli 2012
Back to Bleau (comp)
There was another local competition last Sunday the 8th of July. It was called back to Bleau in Klimmuur centraal.
I arrived at 11.30 and there were just a few competitors/climbers. Probably because of the really bad weather....I just did a small warm up session before a small break with coffee and pie :-) Then the people started coming in and it got pretty crowded! There were some really nice problems set by Casper, Roman, Rogier and I guess many others...I managed to do most of the hardest boulders which gave me the first place and a nice crash pad from Edelrid. Unfortunately I cannot make it to the final on the 8th of September due to other obligations....so I wish the other finalists all the best!
I arrived at 11.30 and there were just a few competitors/climbers. Probably because of the really bad weather....I just did a small warm up session before a small break with coffee and pie :-) Then the people started coming in and it got pretty crowded! There were some really nice problems set by Casper, Roman, Rogier and I guess many others...I managed to do most of the hardest boulders which gave me the first place and a nice crash pad from Edelrid. Unfortunately I cannot make it to the final on the 8th of September due to other obligations....so I wish the other finalists all the best!
Thanks for the great boulders!
maandag 18 juni 2012
Specialist tomorrow
Tomorrow I'll be seeing a specialist for the ongoing finger injury. Hope he fixes it in a day so I can start training for all the comps end August and September!
zondag 10 juni 2012
Late report of the World Cup in Vail
A little late report of the world cup at the Vail Teva games due to outside climbing, flying, jet lag, work and some more catching up with work.
As I did too much the days I arrived in the US of A I took 3 resting days before the world cup started. Just to be sure my elbows were ready for the impact of the American style boulders...dynamic fitness tests with some technical British moves from the route-setter.
In the isolation I felt pretty strong. Because it was hot in the isolation I didn't want to do too much in the warming up....big mistake.
First boulder was a nice mantle followed by a balancing move to a move with an arete. First try I messed up my balance so I needed a second try. Second try I passed the balance move, got to the arete and then on my favorite move (foot to hand while balancing on a 1hand plant) my hand slipped. I was standing on the ground again and was completely pumped....bad warming up and the elevation is not helping either (9600f, or 2400 meters). I saw that the judges put up 0-0 (no bonus, no top) and I was convinced I touched the bonus hold. But stupid enough I was told by my teammates that I totally forgot to touch it....good lesson for next time....keep thinking and make sure to keep focused on the goals: bonus and top.
Second Boulder: Long move to an under-cling, next to the arete, match the under-cling, 2 pinches with a knee-bar, then jump to the good bonus hold. After that some more pinching to an arete and the finish jug. I was still pumped before starting the second boulder and in my first try I forgot to use the arete. Second try I did use the arete got to 2 under-clings and noticed that I couldn't get the knee-bar in. I tried hard to do it anyway, pushed my knee forward, slipped of the tiny foothold and bumped my knee on the stupid hold.....that hurts! 3th try (still pumped like hell) I got to the 2 pinches after the under-cling without making use of the knee-jam but lacked the strength to get to the bonus hold.
Third boulder: Easy compression to a big move with a heelhook. Crossover to a tiny crimp, lock off to the arete and finish on a jug. Still very pumped I couldn't get through the big move, so no bonus again. I really need to warm up better and start doing some lead training or 14 move boulders! This is not good......
Fourth boulder: long move to a sloper with right hand, left hand to another sloper (the same)whit a heelhook on the starting hold, side move to another sloper (the same), move up to a side-pull, then to a small crimp, on to the finish pinch while standing against the sidewall. First move went well, second move went well, while going for the bonus hold my heelhook came out and I was standing on the ground again. Second try I managed to get to the bonus hold and then I tried (stupid enough) to do the small people solution by getting my heelhook on the first sloper. I should have reach the sidepull while keeping my heelhook in place! Fourth try....exactly the same. :-(
Fifth boulder: Sloper to a good hold, then undercling and a big cross over to a small crimp. Stand on friction (wooden wall, so not really friction) and walk over to a tiny foothold. Then to another crimp with your right hand (bonus), under crimp left hand and to a sloper with your right hand. left foot up to the 3th hold and go for the top hold (pincher). First try I missed the tiny foothold. Second try I was a little more dedicated and thanks to the cheering of my teammates I really wanted to do it right this time. I got to the bonus hold but was to tired to get to the undercling. Next try I picked up all the energy left and tried as hard as possible. Somehow the moves were not that hard anymore (although it felt like there was more lactic acid than blood in my veins) and I got to the last move. Due to focus I forgot to get my left foot on higher crimp and went for a jump to the last hold......not very smart as the last hold was a pinch and not possible for me to jump to. So no top and a very low place in the rankings although the climbing went ok again (despite the pumped forearms).
Conclusion: a good week of great fun with nice people but got to train to get a lot stronger!
An impression of the climbing: (the lens was a bit dirty, so not the best quality).
donderdag 31 mei 2012
World Cup Bouldering in Vail starts tomorrow!
The world cup in vail starts tomorrow at 10am local time (18.00 in the Netherlands). The men start at 3pm (23.00 in the Netherlands).
And I'll start as 36th (1 group) so that will be around 6pm (2 uur 's nachts in Amsterdam).
Of course live through www.ifsc.tv
And I'll start as 36th (1 group) so that will be around 6pm (2 uur 's nachts in Amsterdam).
Of course live through www.ifsc.tv
zondag 27 mei 2012
US of A! Training with a jetlag.
Yesterday, The day after arriving in Denver, Colorado, I decided to do something active. First to get used to the high altitude and second to get rid of the jetlag. So we (Mirthe and Pascal) went to Pikes Peak. A 14,150 feet mountain. of course we went up the American way.....by car! In European terms there was a highway all the way up the mountain.
There were some beautiful scenics during the trip and once we got on top it was pretty windy. I tried to run for a 100meters and then I noticed I got a little bit dizzy and I could feel the height. After a little bit of walking around we went back down to Ute Pass (8,500ft) for some outdoor bouldering. Again with some more active hiking to the boulders.
After 2 hours of bouldering we went to the local climbing gym in Colorado Springs(6,00ft). It was there were the jetlag really hit me....I couldn't get up a V7 because of unnatural pumped forearms. Good thing I arrived a week before the world up in Vail, otherwise I might have had it in the comp. Afterwards a good steak for recovering and a good might sleep....the today to the Spot in Boulder for some more training!
There were some beautiful scenics during the trip and once we got on top it was pretty windy. I tried to run for a 100meters and then I noticed I got a little bit dizzy and I could feel the height. After a little bit of walking around we went back down to Ute Pass (8,500ft) for some outdoor bouldering. Again with some more active hiking to the boulders.
After 2 hours of bouldering we went to the local climbing gym in Colorado Springs(6,00ft). It was there were the jetlag really hit me....I couldn't get up a V7 because of unnatural pumped forearms. Good thing I arrived a week before the world up in Vail, otherwise I might have had it in the comp. Afterwards a good steak for recovering and a good might sleep....the today to the Spot in Boulder for some more training!
woensdag 23 mei 2012
Worldcup bouldering Innsbruck 2012
My third worldcup this year.
I had to start last this time....I really should get some ranking points so that wont happen again! Problem with starting last this time was the temperature. In the morning it was around 9 degrees....once I had to start (13.00) it was around 24 degrees. Sweaty hands, slippery slopers and not strong enough to be able to hold on.
I did feel pretty strong though and finally could climb as I wanted, so up for Vail!
First boulder was a bit too easy I think. I wanted to use my length for the last move and was a bit insecure if I could make it or if I should stand higer....but I did, so I flashed it.
Second boulder I got to the bonus in 1 try, then on to the next hold, a side sloper. I was really slippery so I went back to the previous hold to try another method. That didn't work. Tried a couple of times but couldn't get past the sloper.
Third boulder was a nice start, a sort of mantle on a volume. Then onto 2 small side edges (bonus in 1 try) and then jump sideways. Hard part of the jump was that you had to grab the next hold and simultaneously kick your foot to the sidewall. 3rd try I managed to come close but missed the sidewall at an inch....almost a rasped skin..... 4th try I jump, kicked my foot to the sidewall but not fast enough to build up pressure....no top again.
Fourth boulder was not my style, edges, cross over edges....I really need to get stronger in this kind of climbing. I managed to do the first 2 moves but no more.
Fifth boulder was supposed to be mine. mantle, volumes, and balance. All the things I really like. Unfortunately it took me about 10 times to do the first move because I totally messed up in my head. once I finally got to the bonus hold I only had 10 seconds left for the ending and that was not enough....too bad.
Comp was over for me.....semis and finals were great to watch though and on Monday I had a good training session with Jorg, Nicky, Katha, Jacob and for a few minutes Melissa. After that I flew back to Amsterdam for some necessary working. Then Friday off to Vail!
I had to start last this time....I really should get some ranking points so that wont happen again! Problem with starting last this time was the temperature. In the morning it was around 9 degrees....once I had to start (13.00) it was around 24 degrees. Sweaty hands, slippery slopers and not strong enough to be able to hold on.
I did feel pretty strong though and finally could climb as I wanted, so up for Vail!
First boulder was a bit too easy I think. I wanted to use my length for the last move and was a bit insecure if I could make it or if I should stand higer....but I did, so I flashed it.
Second boulder I got to the bonus in 1 try, then on to the next hold, a side sloper. I was really slippery so I went back to the previous hold to try another method. That didn't work. Tried a couple of times but couldn't get past the sloper.
Third boulder was a nice start, a sort of mantle on a volume. Then onto 2 small side edges (bonus in 1 try) and then jump sideways. Hard part of the jump was that you had to grab the next hold and simultaneously kick your foot to the sidewall. 3rd try I managed to come close but missed the sidewall at an inch....almost a rasped skin..... 4th try I jump, kicked my foot to the sidewall but not fast enough to build up pressure....no top again.
Fourth boulder was not my style, edges, cross over edges....I really need to get stronger in this kind of climbing. I managed to do the first 2 moves but no more.
Fifth boulder was supposed to be mine. mantle, volumes, and balance. All the things I really like. Unfortunately it took me about 10 times to do the first move because I totally messed up in my head. once I finally got to the bonus hold I only had 10 seconds left for the ending and that was not enough....too bad.
Comp was over for me.....semis and finals were great to watch though and on Monday I had a good training session with Jorg, Nicky, Katha, Jacob and for a few minutes Melissa. After that I flew back to Amsterdam for some necessary working. Then Friday off to Vail!
donderdag 17 mei 2012
On my way to Innsbruck
In a few hours I will travel to Innsbruck for my third world-cup bouldering of this season. It will be the first time that Innsbruck is organizing a world-cup bouldering (although they already organized the European Championship, so it should be good!)
You can watch the comp live on www.ifsc.tv at Friday and Saturday.
You can watch the comp live on www.ifsc.tv at Friday and Saturday.
woensdag 16 mei 2012
Last training before the worldcup in Innsbruck
Yesterday I had my last training before the worldcup in Innsbruck. I went to the climbing gym at Amsterdam Centraal to get some on sight training. For the first in a long time I finally felt pretty strong. Besides that my injured middle finger is getting better by the day. So feeling good for the comp!
follow the worldcup live at www.ifsc.tv on Friday and Saturday!
follow the worldcup live at www.ifsc.tv on Friday and Saturday!
vrijdag 11 mei 2012
Over 1 week 4de World Cup boulderen in Innsbruck!
Over 1 week vrijdag is de 4de worldcup boulderen van dit seizoen. Het zal gehouden worden in Innsbruck, Oostenrijk.
Vrijdag om 10.00 uur starten de kwalificaties voor de mannen en waarschijnlijk om 16.00uur voor de vrouwen. Live te volgen via www.ifsc.tv! Dus kijken en aanmoedigen!
Deelnemers voor Nederland zijn: Wouter Jongeneelen, Nicky de Leeuw, Jorg Verhoeven, Vera Zijlstra en Hans Busker (me)
Voor diegene die niet weten wat boulderen is.....check dit filmpje!
Of Wikipedia natuurlijk!
Vrijdag om 10.00 uur starten de kwalificaties voor de mannen en waarschijnlijk om 16.00uur voor de vrouwen. Live te volgen via www.ifsc.tv! Dus kijken en aanmoedigen!
Deelnemers voor Nederland zijn: Wouter Jongeneelen, Nicky de Leeuw, Jorg Verhoeven, Vera Zijlstra en Hans Busker (me)
Voor diegene die niet weten wat boulderen is.....check dit filmpje!
Of Wikipedia natuurlijk!
Last teamtraining before the next worldcup in Innsbruck
Yesterday I had my last national team training before the next world cup in Innsbruck. Goal was to climb hard and try to ignore the pain in my finger. This because last Monday I found out that my injury is behaving very strange.....the day after a really hard training session with a lot of pinches it hurts less then the day before.
The training went well and I could even crimp the very small 'Rustam-like-crimps' without pain. At the end of the training my finger was a little swollen and there was a lot of pressure pain, but today almost all the pain is gone. This gives me a lot of confident for the worldcup in Innsbruck!
The training went well and I could even crimp the very small 'Rustam-like-crimps' without pain. At the end of the training my finger was a little swollen and there was a lot of pressure pain, but today almost all the pain is gone. This gives me a lot of confident for the worldcup in Innsbruck!
maandag 7 mei 2012
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