vrijdag 28 september 2012

Dutch National Championship 2012 in Rotterdam

Dutch championship is on: Saturday the 29th of September!

It takes place in the center of Rotterdam....will I be able to climb better then last year and make it to the podium again? Come and see for yourself!

Nk, boulderen, Hans Busker

World Championship in Paris

As a member of the Dutch National Team i got to compete in the World Championship Bouldering in Paris. Unfortunately I got sick on the Saturday before. Although I really hoped everything would be ok on the day I had to climb....it wasnt supposed to be that way.
I had a small fever so I was weak as hell. I couldnt even top the first boulder which was suposed to be around 7A if you did it with the bold holds instead of the holds itself. (why were they not closed?!)

World Championship 2012, Bercy


Although the organisation was a bit French (f.e. isolations closes at 8am while at 7.55am 75% of the athletes where still waiting in line) the competition was great at an almost perfect location! Never knew that so may people would enjoy watching climbing!



At the end I reallly enjoyed watching al the others compete and had a great week sightseeing in Paris, but the comp self was a bit disappointing. Especially as this was the first time in almost a year where I felt pretty strong and confident (before I got sick of course). It really got me motivated to train harder and make sure I wont get an injury anymore.

And we had 2 great sessions in BlockBuster, one of the climbing gyms in Paris. Tonde (from L'Ouvre-Boite) had set up 4 mens and 4 womens boulder problems for practise. Great boulders, great gym!

Dutch Climbing Team, Hans Busker, Blocbuster, Nederlands Team sportklimmen
The Dutch Team at the gym

dinsdag 4 september 2012

Worldcup Munich

The last world up of this season has ended....the worldcup in Munich. Beautiful location (Olympic stadium of 1972 with its remarkable roof).

Fr the first time since last year December I had no finger injury. It was only 4 days before the comp that I had no more pain! A bit too late to get my finger strength back, but on time to be able to climb free and without a blockade.

I felt pretty strong during the warming up and started with confidence. First boulder felt very easy and was able to flash it. In the second boulder I did not see how to make the second move so it took me a while (in my first try) to figure it out. Once I found out I had to make a knee drop I was so pumped I couldn't end the boulder. I had to wait long before making a second try. Still a bit pumped unfortunately I couldn't get past the bonus hold.

3th boulder was balance all over. Start with both hands and feet on a big volume. Somehow I was unable to find my balance so took me a million tries to do the first move. After 4,5 minutes I was able to get to the second hold (with the wrong hand) had to match and jumped to fast the the third hold. Nothing....

4th boulder had to start with a heel hook and thanks to my new shoes (Five Ten dragon) that was no problem at all! Too bad the second hold was pretty slippery....first few tries I zipped every time I tried to jump from the second hold to the corner. Te only time I didn't zip I managed to get the corner but forgot to get it hit enough to make the little people move (very high foothold).

The last bouder was a tricky one. You had to make a dynamic side move while throwing your left foot up into a toe hook at the same time. And of course I did not see it, while normally these kind of strange boulders are my favorite. I tried many different things including a lay down start, but not the right method...

I felt like I could have done a lot more. Too bad! Luckily I still have 1 more comp to go:  the World Championship in Paris! As I still feel strong and it looks like I am getting stronger every day know (thanks to pain free climbing and crimping like hell) I have good hope that I can make up for this season in Paris.